Cosmopolitan Spain Traveler Summer 2018

SPAIN TRAVELER Cosmopolitan

Summer Edition | July - August 2018

LGBTQ IN SPAIN

BEST OF CANTABRIA

SANTILLANA GIL BLAS

Renowned internationally as open, accepting and diverse, Spain delights the senses and invigorates the soul.

Lonely Planet’s travel experts name Spain’s Cantabria region in the north a top spot in Best in Europe 2018.

Charming 18th-century mansion, this Parador is a stone’s throw away from the prehistoric caves of Altamira.

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Summer Edition | July - August 2018

Cosmopolitan Spain Traveler

The Tourist Offices of Spain form part of a network of 33 worldwide offices of TURESPAÑA, Spain’s government tourism promotion authority based in Madrid. Four branch offices in the USA (Los Angeles, Chicago, New York, and Miami) promote leisure and convention travel to consumers, press, and travel professionals in their respective geographic jurisdiction.

CONTENTS

CONTACT YOUR LOCAL OFFICE

LOS ANGELES (West Coast USA) losangeles@tourspain.es

CHICAGO (Midwest USA) chicago@tourspain.es

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NEWYORK (North-East USA) nuevayork@tourspain.es

LGBTQ in Spain A world leader for LGBTQ equality and rights.

MIAMI (South-East USA) oetmiami@tourspain.es

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Discover Cantabria Nature, culture, caves and fine cuisine await!

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Paradors of Spain: Santillana Gil Blas Perfect for an overnight stay in an 8th-century Cantabrian village.

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ON THE COVER

The Centro Botín, Cantabria, Spain Art center and meeting point in Santander. More on pg. 12. Photo by Manuel Álvarez, courtesy of Turismo Santander.

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Cosmopolitan Spain Traveler

Letter from the Editor

With its warm people, vibrant colors, exquisite flavors, vivid culture, rich his- tory, and unique events, it is no wonder that Spain has become such a popu- lar destination for tourists. As an LGBTQ welcoming destination, Spain is internationally known as one of the most exciting and accommodating countries in the world. Having le- galized same-sex marriage since 2005 and allowing couples to adopt chil- dren, LGBTQ people and their lives are welcome here, from beach to bistro to bar and beyond. Whether you come for the festivals, the museums, the restaurants or the nightlife (or a little bit of each!), Spain always delivers. If anything characterizes Cantabria, with its 40,000 year old artwork, moun- tains, valleys, 125 miles of coastline, natio al parks, and the modern capital city of Santander sitting pretty on the Bay of Biscay, it is enormous diversity. With the second-largest regional concentration of Michelin stars in Spain, recently-inaugurated Centro Botín, annually-celebrated Santander Interna- tional Festival, UNESCO World Heritage caves, Picos de Europa National Park, and Greenways, the region of Cantabria is a treasured jewel. The Parador of Santillana Gil Blas is housed in an 18th-century ancestral mansion in the historical center of Santillana del Mar, a well-preserved 8th- century town with cobblestone streets - a perfect place to rest after visit- ing the nearby caves of Altamira. Experience prehistory, medieval, and the present all in one day.

Come to Spain, relax, and explore at your own pace.

3 Tourist Office of Spain

Cosmopolitan Spain Traveler

LGBTQ IN SPAIN

Madrid WHOMEVER YOU LOVE, MADRID LOVES YOU

You live Madrid, but more than anything you feel it. It’s always waiting with open arms; welcoming, accepting, and integrat- ing people from other places. In terms of protecting LGBTQ rights and equality, Spain boasts some of the most progressive legislation in the world. Same-sex marriage has been a reality since 2005. All of this is strongly in evidence in the capital, which is a benchmark for many countries where full equality has yet to be

achieved. For this reason and thanks to other factors such as safety, the nightlife, and its open-minded society, Madrid is regarded by many in the media and special- ized rankings as the best LGBTQ city in the world. Wherever you’re from and whom- ever you love, Madrid loves you.

In recent years Madrid has become a top destination for LGBTQ travelers, and it’s easy to see why: Not only is it a first-class tourist and cultural destination but it’s also a fun, friendly, and tolerant city where di- versity is a defining feature of everyday life. The Madrid Pride festivities, considered to be among the best in the world, are a good example of this.

More Information: • www.madridorgullo.com • www.esmadrid.com

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Photo © MADRID TOURISM

Rights movement to the current Eurogames and Pride, together with same-sex mar- riages that have been held here since 2005, Barcelona has encapsulated the spirit of a modern, forward-thinking European capital. Tourists can enjoy a wide range of leisure and cultural attractions in an atmosphere of tolerance and freedom. Right in the heart of the Eixample is a rectangular area bordered by Carrer Balmes, the Gran Via, Carrer Urgell and Carrer Aragó. Known as the “Gaixample”, it doesn’t cater solely to

the LGTBQ community but epitomizes the city’s inclusive spirit (the Axel Hotel was the first hotel in the world to declare itself het- erofriendly ). The area offers a wide variety of gay-friendly bars, shops, and restaurants. Many members of the LGTBQ community have moved to this area and you can see the rainbow flag hanging from balconies and in shop and bar windows. Welcome to diversity, welcome to Barcelona!

Barcelona All MY LOVING

LGTBQ tourism has been out of the closet for a long time in Barcelona.

Throughout its history, the inhabitants of this tolerant and open-minded city have been aware of the breakthroughs and progress being made by society. In the 1970s Barcelona was already a pioneering city in the fight for the rights of the LGTBQ community. From the beginning of the Gay

More Information: • www.pridebarcelona.org • www.visitbarcelona.com

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Photo © VALENCIA TOURISM

Valencia A CITY PROUD OF PRIDE

Sitges PRIDE BY THE MEDITERRANEAN SEA

and films from around the globe. And every year the streets of the city center fill with color and noise during the Pride Parade, where everybody gets together in a joyous atmosphere. Go to taste any of the gin and tonics with rainbow colors prepared at Café de las Horas, in the city center or enjoy one of the special Pride Menus served at La Lola restaurant for lunch or din- ner. Deseo 54 or The Muse are a must for those who want to enjoy LGTBQ- friendly nightlife.

Valencia is a friendly and open-minded city, where everybody is made to feel welcome, whatever their age, nationality or sexuality. In this cosmopolitan city, the same bright Mediterranean sun shines for everyone and its diverse tourism offering caters to all tastes. For many years Valencia has had a thriving LGBTQ scene with many bars and clubs proudly displaying the rainbow flag, not necessarily confined to a specific street or area. There is also a program of lively events and festivals such as the Mostra la Ploma international film and culture festi- val in June, which features art, literature,

Sitges has been a popular destination for the LGBTQ community for many decades. It is a town where people have always been open-minded, where di- versity adds and enriches, and everyone is welcome regardless of race, religion, or sexual orientation. Great beaches (17 total), awesome events such as Carnival in February or Gay Pride in June, surpris- ingly energetic nightlife for a small beach town, and charming, laid-back locals are all reasons to visit this jewel on the sea.

More Information: • www.valenciaorgullosa.com • www.visitvalencia.com

More Information: • www.gaysitgespride.com • wwww.gaysitgesguide.com • www.visitsitges.com

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2017 marked the 40th anniversary of the first LGBTQ pride parade in Spain. ”

Bilbao SAIL FOR DIVERSITY

The city of Bilbao celebrates Bilbao Bizkaia Pride June 21-24. But from August 18-26, the main festival of the Biscayan capital, Aste Nagusia (“Big Week” in English), takes place: Ten consecutive days of joy with a specific proposal dedicated to diversity. Whether for its open and diverse character, its daytime, afternoon and night program- ming or for the endearing and energetic Marijaia , symbol of the festival, living the moment in which Bilbao celebrates itself is a unique experience that you have to try.

Parades, concerts (free of charge!), culinary competitions, activities for families of all kinds, music and fun, sports, exhibitions… each person chooses their own Aste Nagu- sia . Come and become its protagonist.

More Information: • www.bilbaopride.com • www.bilbaobizkaiafriendly.org

Photo © BILBAO TURISMO

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Cosmopolitan Spain Traveler

DISCOVER CANTABRIA

Located in the north of Spain, between the Basque Country and Asturias, Cantabria is a mountainous and coastal region where

nature, culture, caves, and fine cuisine await!

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Cosmopolitan Spain Traveler

How to get here »

The invitingly green region of Cantabria is one of Spain’s unexpected treasures: a land of wild, sandy beaches, mist-shrouded mountains, enchanting villages like Santillana del Mar and Comillas, lost-in-time churches hewn from the Ebro River’s sandstone banks, and some of Europe’s finest prehistoric cave art. ”

Lonely Planet - Best in Europe 2018

The port city of Santander is the capital of the autonomous community and historical region of Cantabria. Image courtesy of the Gov’t of Cantabria. Magdalena Peninsula, Cantabria, Spain

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Nature

Known locally as "La Montaña", magnificent mountains, as well as splendid valleys, mighty rivers, steep cliffs, and prehistoric caves are a constant presence in Cantabria. When you get to Cantabria you are surrounded by beautiful landscapes. It is essential to visit Cabárceno Nature Park, Fuente Dé cable car in the Picos de Europa mountains, and, for nature and hiking lovers, the Naturea Cantabria routes .

Reproduction of a bison of the cave of Altamira Image courtesy of National Museum and Research Center of Altamira

Cave of Altamira

Can I visit the actual cave? While a scale replica is open to the pub- lic, access to the actual Altamira Cave is limited for preventive conservation and accessibility. Once per week five lucky individuals are selected via a lottery system. The visit is carried out under a strict protocol of clothing and lighting, and with defined route and stay times for each area of the cave. The visit takes place every Friday at 10:40 a.m. Anyone over 16 who is visiting the museum between 9:30 and 10:00 am that same day may participate in the selection process. Upon arrival at the museum, the application form is provided as well as the conditions which must be accepted.

Cantabria is rich in archaeological sites of the Upper Palaeolithic (between 50,000 and 10,000 years ago) with more than 6,500 caves. The peculiar geographical location of Cantabria has favored the formation of caves where prehistoric men settled. In 1985, one such example, the Cave of Altamira, located in Santillana del Mar, was designated as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. In 2008, seventeen caves with Paleolithic artwork, scattered in the Santander province and the autonomous community of Cantabria, were added to the distinction under the title Cave of Altamira and Paleolithic Cave Art of Northern Spain, and are considered to be humanity’s earliest example of art.

In the background, Peaks of Europe

More Information: www.mecd.gob.es/mnaltamira/en/

Image courtesy of the Gov’t of Cantabria

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Cuisine

Queso de nata (cream cheese) which can be found throughout the region, picón from Treviso Bejes, smoked cheeses, such as those from Áliva or Pido, and the small quesucos , which are made from a mixture of cow’s and sheep’s milk are some of the finest examples. The Cantabrian Sea or Bay of Biscay supplies Cantabria with an important part of its tradi- tional diet. The cold waters of the Cantabrian offer goose barnacles, spider crab, velvet crab, clams, meaty lobsters, delicate langous- tines, king prawns, squid, bass, hake, rascasse and fresh anchovy. Albacore tuna are used in one of the region’s most traditional dishes: sorropotún or marmita , a tuna casserole closely related to the Basque marmitako with Fish and seafood

Michelin Stars in Cantabria

The Region of Cantabria is rich in history, art and natural areas: the sea, valleys with mild and warm micro-climates and fertile pastures. The varied cuisine cleverly com- bines the products from the sea with those from the pastures and market gardens. The high quality of Cantabrian milk goes without saying and therefore it is not surprising that dairy products are plenti- ful throughout the region. It is known that the original inhabitants were eating butter 2,000 years ago, while the Romans, the civilized people of those times, only used butter as protection from the sun. For the Cantabrians, cheese is almost a religion. Cheese

Annua San Vicente de la Barquera

Cenador de Amós Villaverde de Pontones

El Serbal Santander

La Bicicleta Hoznayo

Solana Ampuero

El Nuevo Molino Puente Arce

its own identity. Sardines are a typical speciality in the fishing villages, where they are baked and served on a simple wood platter. Fish and seafood are also the base of some of the most famous local dishes: hake in green sauce, squid in their ink with onions, and clam casserole.

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One of Spain’s oldest and most renowned international music and dance festivals, the Santander International Festival is celebrated each August, and this summer marks the 67th edition. Performances include ballet, theater, opera, baroque music, new music, piano competition, orchestras, family shows, and more. For the first several decades of its existence, the festival took place at the Plaza Porticada of the Universidad Internacional Menéndez Pelayo to provide a cultural alternative to foreign students studying at the university, but since 1991 has taken place at several venues: The main site is now the Palacio de Festivales in Santander, with additional venues in historic heritage sites throughout the Cantabria region. Santander International Festival August 1-25, 2018 Before or after perusing the galleries, visi- tors can enjoy breakfast, lunch, afternoon tea, dinner, drinks, Cantabrian tapas, and live music in a culinary space within the Centro Botín with views of the gardens and the sea. El Muelle Restaurant, under the helm of Chef Jesús Sánchez (of two- Michelin starred Cenador de Amos ) offers a fresh and modern experience. More Information: www.centrobotin.org had been commissioned by Emilio Botín, the late chairman of Banco Santander. Cen- tro Botín houses a permanent collection as well as temporary exhibits.

Image courtesy of Turismo Santander Summery snack in Santander: vermouth and a ración of squid rings.

Locally-raised meat

The Renzo Piano-designed Centro Botín (Botín Art Center) opened in June of 2017, now rendering the city a major destina- tion for art lovers. Located in the center of Santander, in the Pereda Gardens and overlooking Santander’s waterfront, the art gallery is funded by the Fundación Botín philanthropic foundation, and the project The Centro Botín cake. Another local speciality is puff pastry, found in different forms and with different names, depending on the area: Corbatas in San Vicente de la Barquera, Polkas in Tor- relavega, and Sacristanes in Liérganes. And although they did not originate here, milk- based desserts such as natillas (custard), rice pudding, and leche frita (milk fritters) are popular, reflecting the high quality of local dairies.

Beef and veal are the star products of Cantabrian farms. The Tudanca cattle breed produces lean and tasty meat, and Spain’s largest cattle market is held in this region: the Torrelavega National Livestock Fair. Other meats are also well represented, with game such as red deer, roe deer, and wild boar. Pork is found practically everywhere in Spain, and is a key ingredient in another traditional dish - cocido montañés , a hearty stew with beans, greens, and black pudding.

Traditional desserts

No meal in Cantabria would be complete without dessert. The locals are fond of sweets, and any restaurant where you choose to eat is likely to offer its own quesadas pasiegas, a traditional cheese-

More Information: www.festivalsantander.com

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www.festivalsantander.com

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Santillana Gil Blas Santillana del Mar, Cantabria S pain’s 97 Paradors include former palaces, ancient convents, medieval castles or buildings created in the local vernacular. P A R A D O R S O F S P A I N

How to arrive

The Parador de Santillana Gil Blas can be reached from the Santander-Comillas road by taking a cobble-stone street for about 100 yards. Then turn right and imme- diately after that, turn left. You will see the town square (Plaza Ramón Pelayo) where the Parador is located on your right.

The Parador de Santillana Gil Blas is no exception. Located in the heart of Santillana del Mar, a charming, 8th-century Cantabrian village some 19 miles from the city of Santander, this Parador is housed in an 18th-century ancestral mansion with flowers climb- ing the outside walls and beautiful bedrooms and living rooms. Perfect for overnight stays to visit area highlights, or as lunchtime stopover if you’re passing through. The dining room is decorated with forged metal lamps and paintings with a Caves of Altamira motif, and the cuisine features Cantabrian special- ties such as hake in Cantabrian-style sauce, highland stews, almejas de Pedreña (clams), and typical desserts such as quesada pasiega (a dense pudding typical of Cantabria). If you’re hiking the Camino, this Parador is also one of the list of 30 Paradores in the network offering the Special Rate for Pilgrims on the Way of St. James on lodging and meals.

Address Plaza Ramón Pelayo, 11 39330 Santillana del Mar Cantabria Telephone +34 942 028 028 Email santillanagb@parador.es Fact Sheet Parador de Santillana Gil Blas (PDF)

More Information: www.parador.es

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Naval Museum - Cartagena, Spain

The best trip is always the next one. — Javier Reverte journalist and writer of travel literature

Cola de ballena ( Whale tail ) is by Spanish artist and Cartagena native Fernando Saenz de Elorrieta . Cartagena and the region of Murcia will be featured in the next edition of Cosmopolitan Spain Traveler. For more on the artist please visit www.saenzdeelorrieta.blogspot.com

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SPAIN TRAVELER Cosmopolitan

About Us TURESPAÑA is the government tourism agency responsible for marketing Spain around the world, creating value in its tourism industry, and driving the economic, social, and environmental sustainability of Spanish destinations. Its mission is to break new strategic ground in Spanish tourism, coordinating and leading public and private actors. All our activities form part of our tourism brand Marca España . Our network of 33 Tourist Offices abroad act both as centers of knowledge and marketing, and as business platforms for the tourism sector. Their role abroad is essential for the execution of our international tourism promotion strategy.

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