Extremadura Guide Eng 2016

EXTREMADURA

TOURIST GUIDE OF

GOBIERNO DE EXTREMADURA

TOURIST GUIDE OF EXTREMADURA

GOBIERNO DE EXTREMADURA Consejería de Fomento, Vivienda, Ordenación del Territorio y Turismo Dirección General deTurismo

2015

PREFACE T here is an infallible method for making a place form part of our deepest memories: walking it. The progressive change of the references in the horizon, the perception of the dimension of a slope, the feeling of going in a village for the first time… They are concepts whose meanings chan- ge completely when we feel them going on foot, when we are given the time to be conscious of what we perceive. Then, it does not matter if the route is short or long, because it becomes a slow trip, a special opportu- nity of paying attention to the details, for discovering what is around us. The paths let us approach to unknown things in a privileged way wit- hout being a stranger. Walking consists of making places belong to our- selves, but at the same time, is making us belong to that place as well. It is forming part of the nature, of the spot and mixing with the environ- ment. It is a way of always being welcome, of acceding to some of these special places offered by those who has won its confidence.

Extremadura is a really worth visiting place on foot. This is a very spe- cial land, a unusual place in Europe. Only a few regions of the old con- tinent have reached to XXI century with a generalized state of environ- mental conservation like Extremadura. Thanks to its low population density and the lack of big urban conglomerations, every Extremaduran region offers close, accessible routes, compatible with other tourist acti- vities, involved in a spectacular nature, either to share it with those who could meet in the way to it or enjoy ourselves in a privileged solitude. The landscape richness of Extremadura and the varied orography of the land are only two of the numerous reasons that make each path sugges- ted in this Guide be a really different choice. The unforgettable taste of every region or the unavoidable change of the seasons are added to the different possibilities of a land that can reward those who make up their mind and breath it closely, a genuine area where it is still possible to live that old, wise culture of the paths.

ÍNDEX

General Aspects 1.1 Some details . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 1.2 Ways of access . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12

1

2 Art and History

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15

3 Natural Spaces 3.1 The Monfragüe National Park . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28 3.2 The Cornalvo Natural Park . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30 3.3 The Cedillo-Tajo Internacional Natural Park . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32 3.4 Garganta de los Infiernos Nature Reserve . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34 3.5 Natural Monument of Los Barruecos . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 36 3.6 Mine La Jayona . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38 3.7 Sca and Spa Sierra Grande de Hornachos . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40 3.8 SCA and Spa Sierra de San Pedro . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 42 3.9 SCA and Spa Los Llanos de Cáceres and Sierra de Fuentes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 44 3.10 SCA and Spa Embalse de Orellana and Sierra de Pela . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 46 3.11 Other open Spaces . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 48 4 Regions and Cities 4.1 Sierra de Gata / Hurdes / Cáparra . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 54 4.2 Valle del Ambroz / Valle del Jerte / La Vera . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 58 4.3 Plasencia / Monfragüe / Campo Arañuelo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 62 4.4 Villuercas / Jara / Ibores . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 66 4.5 Cáceres / Trujillo-Miajadas / Montánchez-Tamuja . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 70 4.6 Sierra de San Pedro-Los Baldíos / Tajo-Salor-Almonte / Valle del Alagón . . . . . . . . . . . 74 4.7 La Siberia / La Serena / Vegas Altas del Guadiana . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 78 4.8 Campiña Sur / Tentudía / Jerez-Sierra Suroeste . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 82 4.9 Olivenza/Badajoz / Comarca de Lácara / Mérida . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 86 4.10 Sierra Grande-Tierra de Barros / Zafra-Río Bodión . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 90 5 Other aspects: 5.1 Tourist Routes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 96 5.2 Festivities and Festivals . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 102 5.3 Handicrafts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 108 5.4 Spas . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 110 5.5 Information of Interest . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 114

1

GENERAL ASPECTS E

xtremadura, with an extension of 41,602 square kilo- metres, the 8% of the national territory, is located in the easternmost part of the South Submeseta borde- ring on Sistema Central to the north, Sierra Morena to the south, the nearby Portugal to the west and Casti- lla-La Mancha to the east. Almost 1.100.000 people live in these lands, with approximately 25 people / square kilometre whereas in Spain it is 80 people / square kilometre. Badajoz is the most populous city of the region, after the capital of Cáceres and Mérida, which is the autono-mous capital. Plasencia, Trujillo, Coria, Navalmoral, Almen- dralejo, Don Benito, Villanueva de la Serena, Jerez de los Caballeros or Zafra are some of the most impor- tant nucleus of the autonomous region.

9

Trujillo

S OME D ETAILS

1.1

The weather in the Extremaduran region is clearly influenced by the proximity of the Atlantic Ocean and the location in the middle of the plain, in spite of the clear fea- tures of the Mediterranean weather, which is reflected in most part of the landscapes. That makes it be different from the typical “meseteño”, either in the milder tempera- tures or the vegetation, where the Mediterranean forest is the main character. The rain in Extremadura is frequent in autumn and spring, with mild temperatures almost all the year round, except for the summer months when the temperatures rises and get milder at night, over all in north valleys and mountainous ranges. Two main rivers cross these lands, Tajo and Guadiana . Their waters are used either for agricultural irrigation or for the important hydroelectric production, thanks to the numerous reservoirs such as Alcántara, Valdecañas, Gar- cía Sola, Orellana, Zújar and the impressive La Serena , the second one in capacity in Europe. These reservoirs pro- vide numerous kilometres of sweet coast very appropria- ted for nautical, sport activities.

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Bath area. Reservoir of Garcia Sola

Art and History

Natural Spaces

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Other aspects

General Aspects

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Valle del Jerte

O F E X T R E M A D U R A

T O U R I S T G U I D E

W AYS OF A CCESS

1.2

Extremadura possesses a great group of roads well distributed all around the region. We cannot forget the fact that the two Extremaduran provinces are the most extensive ones in the whole peninsula and let us intro- duce in any place of its beautiful geography. Badajoz, Cáceres and the autonomous capital of Mérida are linked with each other through some dual carriageways, like the A-5, between Badajoz and Méri- da, or through the Ex-100 that links the two capitals of province and the dual carriageway A-66, which brings Cáceres nearer Mérida. According to these strategic, administrative points, the two main roads that cross the Extremaduran region are used to link the north with the south thanks to, in one hand, the A-66 dual carriageway, which goes from Baños de Montemayor to Monesterio following the rou- te of the historical Vía de la Plata (consequently it beco- mes a door towards Castilla – León and Andalusia); on the other hand, the A-5 dual carriageway, which goes from the northeast to the west and coming fromMadrid and lands of Castilla - la Mancha. It crosses the region from Navalmoral de la Mata to Badajoz going to the nearby Portugal and its capital, Lisbon. Moreover, other two regional dual carriageways EX-A1, that links Navalmoral de la Mata with Plasencia and Coria, and EX-A2, that brings A-5 to the important zone of Vegas del Guadiana by the link between Don Benito and Miajadas. Very important national roads like 432 from Badajoz towards Andalusia by Cordoba and Granada, and 430 from the outskirts of Mérida towards Castilla- La Man-

cha and the regions of Valencia and Murcia, through Ciudad Real, will become carriageways that will provi- de a most fluid traffic. In addition to these national roads, we have the 110 road that links Plasencia with Ávila through Valle del Jerte and 521 road that goes from Cáceres to Valencia de Alcántara, bordering on Portugal. A wide group of secondary roads give access to the main Extremaduran capitals and nucleus from any locality of Extremadura, being well-preserved. We can come into the Extremaduran region either from Madrid or from Seville and even Portugal, due to the high-speed railways in the short term, thanks to the AVE (high- speed train), which will link Madrid with Lisbon. Cáceres is linked with Mérida and Badajoz through regional trains that go to the south, east and north of the region as well. Extremadura possesses an airport in Talavera la Real, close to Badajoz. Mérida and Cáceres are linked by flights to other important Spanish cities such as Madrid or Barcelona. This way of acceding to the Extremaduran region can be complemented with a complete offer of daily regional buses, which link the two Extremaduran pro- vinces and their most outstanding nucleus, with most of the rest of the Spanish regions and the main nearby capitals, such as Salamanca, Toledo, Ciudad Real, Cor- doba, Seville, Huelva and Madrid.

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Art and History

Natural Spaces

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Other aspects

General Aspects

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Lusitania Bridge. s

O F E X T R E M A D U R A

T O U R I S T G U I D E

2

ART AND HISTORY

T

he geographic situation of the Extremaduran lands has made them be a zone of constant settlements of all the cultures and villages that have inhabited in the Iberian Peninsula from Palaeolithic to the arrival of Roma. Thanks to that, it is possible to know “in situ” the important artistic or architectonical examples of unquestionable, hereditary value, many other that have been brought to the display cabinet of the Extremaduran Museums, without forgetting about those which are proudly on display in National and International Museums. Roman troops and settles coming from the Roman province of Bética would arrive at the current Extremadura trying to annex new lands to the Roman Republic at the beginning of II b. C.

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“Carlos V a caballo en Mühlberg” of Tiziano

“Epifanía” of Isebrant in Guadalupe

s

s

A RT AND H ISTORY

2

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Roman arch of Cáparra. Vía de la Plata.

General Aspects

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After serious difficulties and bloody fights against Veton and Lusitanian people, where the famous Viriato would stand out in the middle of this century, Roma would expand its dominations to the lands in the north of Tajo river and founded a new province in Hispania, Lusi- tania, whose capital would be Emerita Augusta , the cur- rent Mérida. A historical-artistic legacy, as wide as important, dates back to this long period of cultural, economic, military set- tlement: theatres, amphitheatres, temples, bridges, aque- ducts, dams, hot baths, funeral monuments, paved roads like the famous “Vía de la Plata” , a Roman route that linked the lands of Itálica, passing by Emerita and which goes in this region from Monesterio in the south of Extremadura that borders on Andalusia, to Baños de Mon- temayor, close to the nearby lands of Castilla y León. The provincial museums of Cáceres and Badajoz , and over all, the National Museum of Roman Art of Mérida offers the chance of knowing numerous archaeological pieces of work dated back to this time among the numer- ous ones preserved for visitants and researchers to enjoy themselves. The Visigothic lands of Extremadura and particularly of Mérida would turn it into a strategic centre of the Visig- othic Hispania since 469 and in an important focus, not only political and religious, but also artistic. There are interesting, artistic examples with clear Roman-Christian influences and beautiful Byzantine, Oriental, African shapes appeared, and at the same time they marked the rest of the Visigothic Spanish reign stylistically and also known as Hispanic-Visigothic art.

Dolmen of Valencia de Alcántara

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Roman Museum. Mérida

O F E X T R E M A D U R A

T O U R I S T G U I D E

Among these artistic works, many of them with a reli- gious meaning, like the case of the basilicas or baptisteries, many cut sculptures are conserved as well as numerous architectonical elements belonging to religious buildings and some from the capital of Mérida. There, you can admire them either in the Visi-gothic Art Museum of Mérida or in the Provincial Museums of Cáceres and Badajoz.

The presence of the Arabs in Extremadura, started a few months after Guadalete ´s battle in 711 and finished in 1248 when Montemolín, the last Muslim possession in Extremadura was conquered by troops of Christian reigns, will last more than 5 centuries. The Extremaduran lands, very close to the influential, political, religious, artistic life of the Emirate and Caliphate of Cordoba, would have important administrative centres in Badajoz, Mérida and other nucleus, among which Bada- joz stands out among the rest in XI century, which will become an important Taifa reign after the decline of Omeyas from Andalusia. The following arrival of Almohads and Almoravids will bring some changes and religious, artistic influences to these lands which border on Tajo and Guadiana rivers, thus leaving a valuable artistic legacy in numerous locali- ties of the Extremaduran region as well as the predecessors Omeyas did in the political power of the Muslim world in the peninsula. For centuries, the Muslim settlement in Extremadura left important folkloric–artistic examples dated back to that time in numerous localities. Some former military for- tifications or settlements, sometimes conserved without many changes and other times, transformed and appropri- ated by the nest dwellers. In this artistic-historical time there are numerous dis- coveries, magnificently on display in some Extremaduran Museums, specially in the Provincial Archaeological Museum of Badajoz . The fact that the Extremaduran lands were in Arabs´ hands, over all in the southernmost part, caused a great curb for the European, artistic, cultural influences. There- fore, the Romanesque art would be late in these latitudes.

18

Visigothic column found in Almendral

General Aspects

Natural Spaces

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Other aspects

Art and History

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Then, while the religious or civil constructions prolif- erated in this style in the north of the peninsula and most part of Castilla y León in XI, XII and XIII centuries, in the medieval Extremadura the Romanesque art did not leave any mark until the end of XIII century, and even later, offering an obvious influence of Gothic style, very popular in Europe since that century, in most part of the conserved works. The Extremaduran lands are frontiers between the reigns of León and the Muslim territorial lands which will last until the middle of XIII century. The repopulation of these regions will be carried out slowly and therefore, most part of the religious buildings, for example, was built over others Muslim buildings, mosques, citadels, etc.

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Moorish cistern in Cáceres

General view of the Citadel in Badajoz

O F E X T R E M A D U R A

T O U R I S T G U I D E

They are centuries of distributing lands between the new owners of the zone and most part of the lands were entrusted to Military Orders that will control these regions absolutely, such is the case of the ones of The Temple , Alcántara , Santiago or Calatrava , real introductories and controllers of any artistic or cultural movement, usually coming from the peninsular north. Furthermore, it is hardly surprising the fact that the most important nucleus of the north of the Extremaduran region are those which possess the best examples of Romanesque or Proto-Gothic art, over all the ones in Plasencia and in its admirable cathedral and finding excel- lent examples in other localities, such as Trujillo, Alcántara or Alburquerque. In addition to that, the Romanesque statues have some examples of artistic-historical interest, in which Virgen de Guadalupe , dated back to XII century or Virgen del Sagrario in the cathedral of Plasencia stand out among the rest. The Muslim culture that had prevailed in Extremadu- ra, from VIII until XIII century, still kept on leaving its influence in a discrete way in civil, military and religious buildings over all, thanks to an artistic style with unques- tionable Almohad features. We refer to the Mudejar art. This style would appear in lands of Extremadura deeply, lands dominated by the Order of Santiago in the provinces of Badajoz and in the localities around the Monastery of Guadalupe . Therefore, there are not many examples of Mudejar art in the regions under the domina- tion of other Military Orders. Then, since the end of XIII until XVI century, this beau- tiful artistic style, where wooden roofs, bevelled pillars and tumid arches prevail, will be reflected in the facades of

the houses, in palaces, fortifications and squares, even in bridges and over all, in towers and inside the churches. The materials used in this kind of constructions of Mudejar style, where sobriety is always the main common feature, are masonry, granite ashlars and over all, bricks. This Islamic tradition would mix up with beautiful Gothic traceries, pointed arches, transversal group of arches, etc. The two zones with most beautiful examples of Mude- jar style are situated in lands near other important nearby Mudejar focuses: Toledo, close to Guadalupe , Alía or Valdecaballeros and Seville to the south of Extremadura with Palomas , Puebla de la Reina , Hornachos , Azuaga or Tentudía . As well as it happened with the Extremaduran Romanesque art, the Gothic style in Extremadura appeared lately in relation to the north of the Peninsula, in spite of the fact that its artistic influences were expanding until XVI century.

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Castle of Alburquerque

General Aspects

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Regions and Cities

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Façade of the Old Cathedral. Plasencia

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Mudejar cloister of Guadalupe

O F E X T R E M A D U R A

T O U R I S T G U I D E

Piedad de Luis de Morales. Cathedral of Badajoz.

Rocamador s church. Valencia de Alcántara

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The Gothic movement will be a continuity of the Romanesque and Proto-Gothic movements at the begin- ning and the most splendid centuries would be XV and XVI, even due to the artistic, stylistic production in Extre- madura, in the middle of XV century, when it would expand to the rest of the peninsular Christian reigns. Extremadura, which belonged to the reigns of León and Castilla during XV and XVI centuries, would belong to the monarchs of Casa de Austria in XVI century, and as it happened with Romanesque style, the Military Orders will be the main promoters of the religious, civil and military constructions, where the labour carried out by the Order of Santiago and the one of Alcántara stand out. The construction will be made of stone and granite, without forgetting about wood and adobe among the most used materials. However, the cross vaults, real construc- tive symbol of this time and style, prevail in the biggest buildings.

During this artistic-historical period, Extremadura will be frequently visited by the monarchs in that moment, like the case of the Catholic Monarchs, Isabel and Fernando, pointing out the fact that the Emperor and king of Castilla, Carlos I, wanted to rest in the Monastery of Yuste in his last days, as he considered it as a place for looking for peace during his last years of life. During these centuries the discoveries of the American continent will have important characters who were born in these Extremaduran lands. We refer to Hernán Cortés , Pizarro , Orellana and many others, who became the main universal Extremaduran characters of the XVI century in Spain, helping to make the so-called “Meeting between two worlds: Europe and America” come true. The Renaissance trends will arrive at Extremadura with some delay, as well as it occurred with the Romanesque and Gothic, and the Gothic influences, for example in architecture, would exist until the first quarter

General Aspects

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x

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A Zurbarán painting

Cathedral of Plasencia

of XVI century and even Gothic and Renaissance ele- ments coexisted dur- ing this period of time. That fact can be demonstrated when observing the picto- rial art where a per-

foundation of the Republic of Salé , in the north of Africa and near Rabat, by some of the Moorish people from these localities. The Baroque movement will ap-

sonal, admirable combination of the Italian and Flemish features will be reflected on the person of Luis de Morales. Once this delay was overcome, Extremadura will know decades of a great Renaissance splendour, a style which has left magnificent marks in our cultural heritage. Therefore, those years could be regarded as the best ones in the modern history in regards to the art. Cathedrals and churches will renovate the medieval buildings, getting as a result numerous works of a marvel- lous beauty, where the Renaissance influences of room and monumentality will be repeated during this century. The Military orders will have an important role in the expan- sion of this artistic style predominant in Europe with the politic authority of the Spanish Austrias. The influence of artists coming from Salamanca, Andalusia and other places in the peninsula will be a con- stant aspect in XVI century and with them, the admired Renaissance ideas approved either by civil or religious authorities. Austrias and Borbones governed most part of the countrymen and countrywomen in Spain and Extremadu- ra. They were Moorish people who were dependent on the Military Orders and had to leave their lands and houses, being expelled according to Felipe III´s wishes in 1609. It was the beautiful locality of Hornachos one of the most affected ones because of this expulsion which caused the

pear in XVII century with a certain reticence. Nevertheless, it developed brightly in XVIII century, in whose second part would go hand with hand with the Neo-classical stream. Furthermore, XVII and most part of XVIII centuries will bring new artistic direction in the civil and religious architecture, in the interesting statues and the important pictorial examples, where an Extremaduran painter will shine like a real star. We refer to Francisco de Zurbarán , born in Fuentes de Cantos and whose admirable work can be observed in the sacristy of the Monastery of Guadalupe. The Baroque artistic newness and some civil, military constructions, all of them with clear mannerism influences, Austria style and the so-called Extremaduran “bajo Barro- co” will be captured in churches, convents and hermitages. Andalusia would be located in the southernmost part whereas Castilla would do it in the northernmost part of the Extremaduran lands. Moreover, XIX and XX centuries are two centuries with remarked changing features either in a social or political and cultural way, which has influenced in the architecton- ical, sculptural and pictorial styles of that time. Centuries of important, transcendental, agricultural, industrial and social revolutions, some of them as a result of the French Revolution in 1789, will affect Spain and Extremadura. Unquestionably, these influences would be

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O F E X T R E M A D U R A

T O U R I S T G U I D E

Extremaduran and Latin American Museum of Contemporary Art. MEIAC. Badajoz

San Bartolomé s church. Jerez de los Caballeros

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more powerful at the beginning of XIX century, when some war confrontations took place with the nearby French country in the so-called Independence War. In addition to that, XIX is a century where the classi- cism inspired in the Greco-Latin world, started in the pre- vious century, will triumph and will appear in Extremadu- ra after a while, as well as it had happened before with oth- er artistic trends, a question that occurred in the middle of XIX century. This XIX century will have important, revolutionary political changes: Fernando VII´s return, his daughter Isabel II coming to the throne and civil wars between her followers and Carlists, expulsion of the queen, Amadeo of Saboya was proclaimed king, instauration of the First Republic, loss of the last American colonies, etc. Furthermore, XX century will be as changing as the

previous one: king Alfonso XII ´s abdication, the Civil War, period of military dictatorship, restoration of Monarchy and an important period of political, democratic freedom in the last quarter of this century. All that will be reflected in the creative, cultural world in Spain and in Extremadura locally, divided into two provinces since the very beginnings of XIX century and which will not be set up until 1983. This XX century will bring Modernism and numer- ous artistic expressions of vanguard, some of them together with philosophical, cultural trends that will mark the numerous Extremaduran or foreign painters, sculptors or architects who have developed their work in this region. Many cities of Extremadura possess interesting works dated back to this time, over all in architecture; there are

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Vostell Museum. Malpartida de Cáceres

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several regions proud of the avantguard works of the engi- neers, sculptors or architects who have inspired by Extremadura or part of Extremadura in the carrying out of a decorative, functional or practical work. Nonetheless, there are lots of architects and engineers, together with painters or sculptors, who have lived under the inspiration by Extremadura, still coming from other latitudes of the world, such as Vostell , whose Museum located in Malpartida de Cáceres causes an unquestion- able, international admiration. In Museums such as the Extremaduran and Latin- American Museum of Contemporary Art (MEIAC) and those of Fine Arts and Casa de los Caballos in Cáceres, the visitant can have a magnificent, wide view of the Extremaduran and avant – garde art of the last few cen- turies, with artist of international fame whose works of

arts are on display in their rooms and stand together with other foreign works of great prestige. They are worth mentioning the original, attractive Ethnographic Museums standing in numerous Extremaduran nucleus, with obvious examples of a legacy admired more and more, either among the Extremaduran visitants or among those coming from other Spanish regions and who really appreciate the cultural, anthropo- logical value of these works, some of them with thousands of didactic pieces on display in rooms that were former castles, feudal houses, farming houses or avantgarde buildings in ancient times created for that. Those situated in the localities of Olivenza , Don Beni- to , Plasencia and Huerta de Ánimas , in addition to the ones in Trujillo, stand out among all of them.

O F E X T R E M A D U R A

T O U R I S T G U I D E

3

NATURAL SPACES

E

Extremadura is one of those rare places in Europe where it is still possible to maintain a close relations- hip with nature at its purest on a daily basis. Its socio- demographic oddities, such as its low population density or the traditional sustainable exploitation of the resources of the pastures, have enabled the region to enter the 21st Century with an excellently preser- ved environmental heritage. The biodiversity of Extremadura is surprising. The huge variety of ecosystems and landscape, from the mediterranean to deciduous forests, from semi steppe conditions to some of the greatest wetlands on the European continent, today offer habitat and in some cases a last/final/remote refuge to numerous species of flora and fauna. It is for this reason that almost 30% of the region’s land is under some sort of environmental protection scheme.

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T HE M ONFRAGÜE N ATIONAL P ARK

3.1

LOCATION The Monfragüe National Park takes up an area of 17852 hectares and its boundaries coincide with those of the Special Protection Area which has the same name. This protected area spreads out from both sides of the Tajo riv- er, with the mouth and a valuable stretch of the Tiétar riv- er being included. With a privileged location, it borders on the South of the natural region of Campo Arañuelo. The mountain ranges of this area form an arch which is the backbone of the union between Las Villuercas and the mountains which surround the fertile lowland of the Alagón River, thus acting as an ecological corridor. Any visit to Monfragüe must be initiated in the Visitor Centre, where we can gather information about routes, itineraries and activities as well as useful and accurate information. As regards numerous groups of visitors, it is recom- mendable to previously make an appointment by calling the National Park’s information number and pointing out the type of activity to be carried out. Due to the importance of the species that exist in the area and their sensitivity to nuisance, visitors cannot take routes or itineraries other than those indicated by the State Environment Office. Besides, camping is not allowed in this area. In fact, there is a camping site near Villareal, by the Cáceres-Trujillo road. Nonetheless, the stay at the huts in Villareal is only for those groups which are to carry out an environmental education project after applying for it to the National Park’s Management. It is recommendable to visit it in spring, autumn and winter. RECOMMENDATIONS FOR VISITS

TORIL

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Declared Nature Reserve in 1979, it was the first pro- tected area. This urgent declaration was motivated by the serious threats that, at that time, meant a great danger for the place which was already regarded as one of the most valuable enclaves in the Iberian Peninsula. The construction of large dams in the Tajo and Tiétar rivers, with the subsequent destruction of all the plant life of their groves and their banks, as well as the massive reforestations with eucalypts in the 70s, threatened the conservation of the main protecting area for the various endangered species and one of the most well-preserved area of Mediterranean flora.

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Raise to the Castle

Deer in the pasture

View of the river Rajo

O F E X T R E M A D U R A

T O U R I S T G U I D E

T HE C ORNALVO N ATURAL P ARK

3.2

For nearly two millenniums the Cornalvo Roman Dam continues to provide water to various towns. From a bird’s eye view, it looks like a horn/antler: “cornus albus”, white horn…hence Cornalvo. Named a national monument in 1912, the dam is constructed from blocks of stone that, in line with the gradient, divide the waters of the Las Muelas reservoir. The economic strength of the area was and con- tinues to be cattle exploitation. Within the area various farmhouses have been constructed including one belon- ging to the Count of Campomanes (18th Century), the grandest of them all. Carlos III handed over the land for its development and improvement and in 1795 Carlos IV sta- yed here during is journey to Badajoz. LOCATION The Cornalvo Natural Park is approximately located in the geographical centre of Extremadura, in Vegas del Gua- diana. It can be regarded as the vertex of two mountainous formations that meet at this peculiar enclave. On one hand, the mountainous alignments of Sierra de San Pedro; and on the other hand , Sierras de Montanchez, a prolongation of the great mountain mass, thus being the last mountain bar- rier before crossing the valley of Guadiana. Besides, the municipal terms of Mérida, Aljucén, Mirandilla, San Pedro de Mérida and Guareña are partly included in its extension of 10,500 hectares. The locality of Trujillanos, despite the fact of being the traditional entrance to the Park, is not included inside the limits , but it possesses the magnificent Interpretation Centre.

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The uniformity of the landscape is the most significant feature of Cornalvo. The raised area is almost completely dominated by flat granite pastures, and the spurs that emerge from the sierras do not even reach 550m in height, for example, Sierra Bermeja and Sierra del Moro. This uni- formity is not altered by the presence of the berrocal, neatly integrated into the gentle undulating landscape which, together with the waterfalls and potholes of the Las Muelas creek, “El Rugidero”, reveal the interesting geo- morphologic features.

RECOMMENDATIONS FOR VISITS

Any visit to the park must be initiated in the Interpretation Centre, where some information about the most convenient itineraries and other recommendations will be offered. Op-

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Cork

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Aerial view of the reservoir Cornalvo

posite the Interpretation Centre, in the dehesa where San Isidro´s hermitage is located, we can find a marvellous rest- ing area with big tables for large groups of visitants. Most part of the routes of the Nature Reserve pass through exploitations dedicated to the extensive cattle farm- ing, that it the reason why we must be careful and close all the doors and railings in order to avoid problems with the animals. Furthermore, it is not allowed to have a bath in the

reservoir of Cornalvo because of being a dam of drinking water supply. It is recommended the visit to the spot of Berrocal del Rugidero after autumn to spring rain, when the low of Arroyo de las Muelas is higher and the sound of the water in the holes of the granite is more spectacular. When the rocks of granite are damp, you should be careful when walking over them due to the risk of falling down.

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T O U R I S T G U I D E

SPA C EDILLO - T AJO I NTERNACIONAL

3.3

LOCATION The Cedillo-Tajo Internacional Natural Park is located to the West of the province of Cáceres, bordering on Portu- gal. The boundaries of this area are parallel to the Tajo and Sever Rivers, occupying a narrow strip of land which includes all the limits of their courses, except for the last stretch of the Tajo River, where limits widen and spread out throughout the dehesas and slopes that fall towards the Sever, thus taking up the whole of Cedillo municipal district. The Natural Park is in contact with the protected area of Portugal, where the Tajo River is regarded as a Nature Reserve. In Extremadura, This Natural Park borders on the Special Area of Conservation known as “Sierra de San Pedro” as well as on the Sites of Community Importance known as “Río Erjas”, “Llanos de Brozas”, “Rivera de Aurela” and “Riveras de Carbajo y Calatrucha”, thus revealing the significance of the nature values that exist in this privileged corner of the region. Because of its flatness, the Natural Park of Cedillo-Tajo Internacional only takes up 13263 hectares, which spread throughout the municipal districts of Cedillo, Herrera de Alcántara, Santiago de Alcántara, Valencia de Alcántara, Carbajo, Membrío and Alcántara.

ESPAÑA

ALCÁNTARA

CEDILLO HERRERA DE ALCÁNTARA

RÍO TAJO

SANTIAGO DE ALCÁNTARA

CARBAJO

RÍO SALOR

SIERRA DE SAN PEDRO

MEMBRÍO

RÍO ALBURREL

PORTUGAL

RÍO SEVER

SALORINO

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VALENCIA DE ALCÁNTARA

RECOMMENDATIONS FOR VISITS

Sailing in this reservoir is only possible between the 1st of January and the 31st of July, a measure that was taken especially with a view to protecting the birds that nest by banks, since they are very sensitive to the presence of human beings. The use of motorboats or boats without a motor requires permission by the State Environment Office.

By virtue of the Wild Birds Directive (79/409/ECC), this valuable cross-border zone was declared a Special Pro- tection Area in 2000 by Decree 232/2000, by means of which new areas were declared Special Protection Areas in Extremadura. In 2006, this place has been declared as Natural Park.

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It is not allowed to follow routes that are different from those that are recommended, especially near banks. Besides, it must be avoided to get near river banks especially from February up to June, a period in which the most sensitive species (the black stork, the Bonelli’s eagle, the Egyptian vulture and the Golden eagle) nest. The Roman bridge of Alcántara is a must-see con- struction. This superb bridge was the first that was built to make it possible to cross the Tajo during an epoch in which its wild waters were not curbed by the reservoirs existing today.

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Roman bridge of Alcántara

River Tajo

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T O U R I S T G U I D E

G ARGANTA DE LOS I NFIERNOS N ATURE R ESERVE

3.4

LOCATION Garganta de los Infiernos Nature Reserve is located in the region of Valle del Jerte, in the southeast slope of Sier- ra de Gredos. It is regarded as the door of entrance to the Autonomous Region of Extremadura from the province of Ávila, a real balcony towards the valley that opens to the plain of Cáceres. The small extension of the Reserve, 6,800 hectares, is divided into three municipal terms: Tornavacas, Cabezuela del Valle and Jerte. Due to the fact that the conditions of the mountain are really hard and the sudden meteorological changes pro- duced that can catch the visitant, it is always recommend- ed to bring warm clothes and protection from the rain. As regards the difficulty of certain routes, it is conven- ient to ask for information to the staff of the Reserve, who will advise you about the most appropriate routes for each group according to your preferences. Many of the species of flora of the Reserve are strictly protected due to the fact that they are very scarce, thus it is banned to recollect any plant. Los Pilones, the zone which attracts the largest groups of visitants, is the most vulnerable place due to that. There- fore, it is recommended to be specially careful in order to avoid the rubbish being thrown and help it to keep on being a beautiful place where the intensive use by the pub- lic and its conservation are compatible. RECOMMENDATIONS FOR VISITS

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That is the only one Nature Reserve in the Group of Protected Areas of Extremadura nowadays. Actually, it was declared as such in 1994, through a Decree in which the precise description of its limits is reflected. Regarding its nature values, specially the mountain habitat, the Garganta de los Infiernos Nature Reserve forms part of the Site of Community Importance (LIC), the so-called “Sierra de Gredos and Valle del Jerte”, proposed by the Extremaduran Autonomous Region for it to be included in the future “Natura Network 2000”. The LIC, with over 74,000 hectares of extension, includes the whole mountain mass of Gredos and the main valleys.

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Griffon vulture

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“Los Pilones”

O F E X T R E M A D U R A

T O U R I S T G U I D E

N ATURAL M ONUMENT OF L OS B ARRUECOS

3.5

CAM I N O D E A L D E A D E L CANO - TOR REOR GA Z

LA CAÑADA

pasture zones and crops, as well as some isolated holm- oak woods, which provide more value to the zone. The protected area stands totally in the municipal term of Malpartida de Cáceres and takes up 319 hectares.

CARRETERA DEL LAVADERO DE LANAS

CHARCA DE FRASCO DÍEZ

MOLINO

C AM IN O D E M O N T Á N C H EZ

MOLINO

CHARCA DEL BARRUECO DE ARRIBA

FUENTE DE LA SERRANA

MOLINO

FUENTE DE LOS BURGAÑOS

RECOMMENDATIONS FOR VISITS

MUSEO VOSTELL

In the visits to the zone of the granite, you must avoid disturbing the storks that nest in the rocks, specially dur- ing the period of incubation and when the chickens are younger, due to the fact that we can motivate the failure in the reproduction. It is not convenient to approach to the nests where those animals could be incubating. In the sandy banks, with rushes and grasses, certain bird species usually nest, therefore we must avoid approaching to the water. In the period of rain, and early in the morning, the granite is very slippery and you can take the risk of falling down if you are not aware. Besides, there are a group of guards who will give you information about the routes or any aspect of the Natural Monument. The Vostell-Malpartida Museum, close to the dam of Charca del Barrueco de Abajo, is a must-see loca- tion. It was created in 1976, after the restoration of the for- mer washing place, and most part of the magnificent works by the German artist Wolf Vostell are kept inside it. Moreover, in the zone of Peñas del Tesoro, some of his sculptures can also be contemplated. In Malpartida, the Museum dedicated to the contem- porary painter Juan Narbón can be visited.

DEHESA DE LAS TRESCIENTAS

MOLINO

CHARCA DEL BARRUECO DE ABAJO

PEÑAS DEL TESORO

CENTRO DE INTERPRETACIÓN DE LA NATURALEZA

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It was the first declared Natural Monument in the whole region, whose Decree of creation was published in 1996. Later, in the Law 8/98 of conservation of the nature and natural areas of Extremadura, it is recognized and integrated in the Group of Natural Areas of Extremadura. LOCATION The wide plains which spread out in most part of the lands between Brozas and Trujillo, located on the plain of Cáceres, are surrounded by blocks of granite in some enclaves, but only a few are as spectacular as Los Barrue- cos. The surroundings of the Natural Monument possess

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“Charca del Lavadero”

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Stork

Landscape

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M INE L A J AYONA

3.6

RECOMMENDATIONS FOR VISITS

The whole route must be carried out with a helmet, which is given to the visitants before acceding to the dif- ferent stages. In the narrowest streets, you must avoid causing crowds. Therefore, you must follow the indica- tions given by the guides who go with the groups and only those places where the access is allowed can be visited. Despite the fact that the conditioning of the mine makes the route be totally safe, the caution is essential in order to avoid accidents.

FUENTE DEL ARCO

PROVINCIA DE BADAJOZ

PROVINCIA DE SEVILLA

ERMITA DE LA VIRGEN DEL ARA

MONUMENTO A FÉLIX RODRÍGUEZ DE LA FUENTE

SIERRA JAYONA

SANTA CRUZ

LA CAPITANA

CARRACA

Visit to the mine

MINA DE LA JAYONA

SIERRA DE SAN MIGUEL

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Declared Natural Monument through a Decree of Jun- ta de Extremadura in 1997 and later recognized as such in the Law 8/98 of “Conservation of the Nature and Natural Areas of Extremadura”, thus forming part of the Group of Protected Areas of Extremadura. LOCATION The Natural Monument of Mine La Jayona is located in the southeast of the province of Badajoz, almost in the lim- it with the province of Seville. This protected area includes the surrounding lands of the mine and has an extension of 80 hectares, thus being inside the municipal term of Fuente del Arco.

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“Elanio azul”

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Inside the mine

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SAC AND SPA S IERRA G RANDE DE H ORNACHOS

3.7

region of Tierra de Barros, at the back of the locality of Hor- nachos, and built in one of its slopes, with a privileged location. The central position of the mountainous range in the region makes its water flow into several rivers, such as Matachel, Guadámez and Palomillas, which rise from the runoffs of these valleys. It borders on the reservoir of Los Molinos and with nearly treeless lands, where dry cops prevail, in the southeast. Nevertheless, in the southwest its limits are steeper , thus bordering on other mountain for- mations, such as Sierra de Miradera, Sierra del Rincón and Sierra de la Pedriza. Moreover, the region of Campiña Sur, with dehesas and extensive dry cultivations, spreads out to the south. It is the southernmost part of the central mountainous ranges, forming part of a group of mountain relieves that starts in Sierra de Arroyo, continue by Sierra de Peñas Blancas and ends in the one of Hornachos, giving a mar- vellous corridor that emerge in the wide surrounding plains. The protected area has an extension of 12,190 hectares, all of them inside the municipal term of Hornachos. Camping is not allowed in this place, but visitants can stay at the huts typical from the Recreational Area “La Fuentecita”. Due to the presence of numerous birds that nest there, it is not recommendable to do the routes which are not signposted as well as going up to the rocks or going deep into the slopes without ways. In the Town hall of Hornachos you can gather infor- mation about routes and activities in addition to other tourist resources. RECOMMENDATIONS FOR VISITS

RÍO PALOMILLAS

CENTRO DE RECUPERACIÓN ADENEX

SIERRA DE

LOS PINOS

MIRADOR DE LA MAGRERA

SIERRA GRANDE

SIERRA DE LAMIJAR

HORNACHOS

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In 1989, after applying the Directive of Birds (79/409/ CEE), it is classified as Special Protection Area (ZEPA), thus according to the compulsory European rules. Later, after publicizing the Law 8/98 of “Conservation of Nature and Natural Areas of Extremadura” is included in the Group of Protected Areas of Extremadura with the figure of Special Conservation Area (SCA), having the same limits as ZEPA. LOCATION The Sierra Grande Special Conservation Area of Hor- nachos is one of the mountain enclaves that stand in the

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